Cucino 101

A Lesson on Grains

by Chef Walter Potenza

A epending on calorie needs, it is suggested that all Americans over the age of 2 years should eat at least three 1-oz.-equivalent servings of grains each day. Most grains, including barley, millet, oat, rice, rye and wheat, are the single-seeded fruits of the grass family. However, some grains, such as amaranth, buckwheat and flax, are fruits or seeds from non-grass plants.

Amaranth and quinoa, for instance, fall into the category called "ancient grains," Amaranth was prized by the Aztecs, while quinoa was a favorite of the Incan culture. As small seeds, they are similar in appearance. When you put amaranth and quinoa together, unless you're a really good grain person, it's hard to tell the difference, because it's a very small kernel. Flavor will set them apart, since amaranth is often described as having a peppery taste, with a unique whole-grain flavor and a slightly toasty, nutty flavor note. Perhaps the two grains were so valued by ancient cultures because of their superior nutritional profiles.

Both grains are imported, and both are high in lysine, methionine and cysteine, making them more complete than most grains. Quinoa, in addition, can be used just like rice in any recipe you would use rice. It cooks in half the time of regular rice (12 to 15 minutes). It's a little bit smaller than rice and some people combine the two in recipe applications.

Both quinoa and amaranth are ideal grains for those who must maintain a gluten-free lifestyle. Most gluten-free products are corn-, rice-, potato- or soy-based. Amaranth offers a higher degree of nutrition and variety compared to corn and rice and also holds its own compared to soy and potato. In creating gluten-free products, it combines well with rice flour, corn flour, sorghum and a variety of other gluten-free sources. Advantage can also be taken of amaranth's superior nutritional profile to boost specific nutritional aspects of a product, such as the iron content of a snack product or flatbread. Those with celiac disease also have difficulty getting enough fiber, iron and calcium in their diets. Amaranth provides all three in abundance."
Other Fine Grain Ideas

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) Buckwheat goes beyond pancake mixes: Japan's soba noodles, Brittany's cràpes and Russia's kasha are made with buckwheat. Botanically, buckwheat is a cousin of rhubarb, not a grain, but its nutrients, nutty flavor and appearance have led to its adoption into the family of grains.

Bulgur (Triticum) Bulgur is most often made from durum wheat, but almost any wheat can be used. Because bulgur has been precooked and dried, it needs to be boiled for only about 10 minutes, making bulgur a nutritious food for quick side dishes, pilafs or salads. Bulgur's best-known use is in tabbouleh.

Corn (Zea mays mays) Although sometimes dismissed as a nutrient-poor starch, corn is lately being viewed as a healthy food. Treating corn with alkali creates masa harina and hominy and liberates the niacin. Eating corn with beans creates a complementary mix of amino acids that raises the protein value.

Emmer, Farro (Triticum turgidum dicoccum) Emmer, an ancient strain of wheat, has been replaced by higher-yielding strains, except in Ethiopia, where it still constitutes about 7% of the wheat grown. In Italy, it is known as farro or grano farro. Semolina flour from emmer is still used for special soups and other dishes in Tuscany and Umbria, and farro is thought by some to make the best pasta.

Grano (Triticum turgidum durum) When durum wheat kernels are lightly polished, they become grano, a side-dish full of nutty flavor and al dente texture. Minimal processing means that some of the outer casing is removed to cut cooking time to about 30 minutes. In Italy, grano predates pasta, but is still enjoyed in traditional dishes.

Kamut grain (Triticum turgidum turanicum) Kamut grain is another heirloom grain. Years of selecting, testing and propagating brought Kamut, an ancient Egyptian word for wheat, to prominence. Today, millions of pounds of this rich, buttery-tasting wheat are grown on organic farms and made into whole-grain products.
Millet (Panicum miliaceum) Millet is the leading staple grain in India, and is commonly eaten in China, South America, Russia and the Himalayas. Millet has a mild flavor and is often mixed with other grains or toasted before cooking to bring out the full extent of its delicate flavor. Its tiny grain can be white, gray, yellow or red.

Rice (Oryza sativa) White rice is refined, with the germ and bran removed. Whole-grain rice is usually brown, but can also be black, purple, red or a variety of hues. Converted rice is parboiled before refining, which drives some of the B vitamins into the endosperm so that they are not lost when the bran is removed, making converted rice healthier than regular white rice. Brown rice is lower in fiber than most other whole grains.

Sorghum, Milo (Sorghum spp.) Worldwide, about 50% of sorghum goes to human consumption, but most of the U.S. crop is fed to animals or finds industrial use. Sorghum,also called milo, can be eaten like popcorn, cooked into porridge, ground into flour for baked goods or brewed into beer.

Spelt (Triticum aestivum spelta) Spelt is a variety of wheat formerly widely cultivated. It can replace common wheat in most recipes. It is higher in protein than common wheat. Anecdotal reports say some people sensitive to wheat can tolerate spelt, but no reliable medical studies have addressed that issue.

Additional grains of interest are:

Teff (Eragrostis tef), used primarily by Ethiopians.
Triticale, of which about 80% of the world's crop is grown in Europe, and
Wild rice (Zizania), which is not technically rice at all, but the seed of an aquatic grass.